This section looks at second hand GTi's and what to look for when making that
all important decision. Which could turn out quite costly if you don't take
the time to look at the car in great detail.
Three important tips before purchasing a car: 106 GTi Buyers Guide
GTi OIL LEAKS
Look for signs of an oil leak from the top~end coming from the camshaft oil
seals, if it has been wiped off look directly below to see signs that a leak
has occurred.
OIL LEAKS IN GENERAL
Phase One suffered terribly. Oil at either end of the engine probably means
one or both of the crankshaft oil seals has gone which means (loads of work to
get replaced and costly too).If your prepared to get your hands dirty take
along a couple of spanners and take off the cambelt covers and look for signs
of oil at the front left corner of the join between the head and the engine
block. If you should come across oil then the likely hood is that one of the
main oil ways has failed on the head gasket.
CAMBELTS
Not very many GTi's have done loads of mileage, If your looking at a Phase one
then check that it has been changed as they require changing at 36,000 or
48,000,depending on the model and the year. As the Phase two cars do not need
replacing until 72,000. If you're seen no sign of the cam belt been changed
and logged in the service book then tread carefully. This could mean that the
car has not been mechanically looked after.
GEAR SHAFT
Sloppy gearchanging is a common 106 fault. The 106 shift rods weren't that
great from the start and get worse a time goes by. But to replace the rods are
not expensive and their easy to change.The cost of a new set of rods should be
somewhere between £15~£20 depending on the year.If you are going to change
them then think about changing them for a quickshift set up will reduce gear
movement by 30%, and costing about £99.00.
CLUTCH
If the clutch judders,then it could mean that oil has leaked internally from
the crankshaft oil seal onto the clutch plate. A new clutch kit should sort
out the problem.
CV JOINTS
When test driving the car listen out for clicks and knocks from the
driveshafts. To do this drive the car on both left and right lock at a slow
speeds. If you hear noises then the likely hood is their knackered.
FRONT SUSPENSION
The suspension on the 106 is quite sound, but one fault they can suffer from
is vague steering.Which is caused by the rack mounting bolts coming lose.(Mainly
models with powersteering).
REAR SUSPENSION
The 106 uses a radius arm set which pivots up and down to provide rear
suspension.The trouble spot to look at on the 106 is the bearing at the end
mounted to the chassis. Things to look out for are negative camber on the rear
wheels, and signs of tyres rubbing on the body work.
BRAKES
Peugeot have come up trumps with the 106 brakes as up front you get 254mm
vented discs. On the rear you get 254mm solid disc, the trouble spots to look
out for are. Check that the ABS light goes out 2 seconds after the engine has
started,if it stays on then their could well be a fault with the ABS system
which parts are usually expensive. Secondly look closely at the discs for deep
ridges and grooves especially the front.
BODY WORK
Check all panels for alignment carefully. The 106 body panels should have nice
even gaps. If not then this could mean that the car could have been involved
in a small knock or the worst a crash. Look for creases in the boot floor
inner wings front and rear, and check trims are fitting incorrectly.
ALLOY'S
Look closely at the front alloys for damage. One of the main causes for
damaged wheels are that they have been kerbed. Peugeot alloys are not cheap to
buy so if your not planning any wheel upgrades the look at the wheels closely
as they can be quite expensive.
205 GTi Buyers Guide (1)
The Peugeot 205 was introduced to the UK in October 1983 as a replacement for the 104. It was an instant success and was acclaimed for it's modern styling, comfort, handling and practicality. It was initially available with 4 engine options, including Peugeot's excellent 1769cc diesel, and in 3 or 5 door hatchback form. It wasn't long before a sporty GTi model came onto the scene, and a couple of years on, a cabriolet arrived to complete the range. The 205 was discontinued in 1997, and has not yet been replaced as it falls in between the smaller 106 and the larger 306 models in the Peugeot range. This is one reason why the value of decent used 205's remain strong. Specifications 954cc Petrol
1124cc Petrol
1360cc Petrol
1580cc Petrol
1769cc Diesel
1905cc Petrol
Things to look out for
Rusty 205's are a rare sight, even the A & B reg examples are usually pretty rust free, although it's worth checking the rear hatch for signs of rust around the rear screen. Check carefully for signs of accident damage, particularly on the (often enthusiastically driven) GTi's. Also on GTi's, look out for signs of it having been stolen/recovered - One key should work the doors, hatch and ignition.
Petrol models tend to get a bit smoky with age, but there are no real problems otherwise. Cambelts need replacing at 48,000m intervals. Look out for signs of head gasket problems on 1.9 models. With 5,000m oil changes and 50,000m cambelt changes, the diesels will go on for ever.
Clutch cables can get stiff, making for a heavy clutch action, and the gear linkage (made of bits of coathanger and little ball joints) will not take too much heavy use. Clutches on diesels should last 150,000m.
Check for perished driveshaft gaiters, and play in the steering rack.
Distributor wear on the GTi's, particularly the 1.9 can lead to a lumpy (or should that be lumpier?) idle or even stalling and cold starting can be a problem.
Check that the thermostatic fan comes on when the temperature goes up, and that the heater works efficiently.
Prices In general, 205's hold their value well, even the GTi's which suffered massive depreciation in the late 80's/early 90's are now holding their prices well. Expect to pay £1,300 for a 1989 5dr 1.1 with 75k, £1,500 for a 1.4 and £1,800 for a diesel. If you can find a decent, undamaged 1.9GTi with history for much under £3,000 then buy it. Further Information We hope you find this guide useful. If you spot any ommissions or
errors, please let us know. 205 GTi Buyers Guide (2) (and other sporty 205 types) Source: www.205gti.com Things to look out for
Petrol models tend to get a bit smoky with age, but there are no real problems otherwise. Cambelts need replacing at 48,000m intervals. Look out for signs of head gasket problems on 1.9 models.
Check for perished driveshaft gaiters, and play in the steering rack. Check the stabilisers. They have been revised by Peugeot 2 (two) times but they still wear fast.
Distributor wear on the GTi, particularly the 1.9 can lead to a lumpy (or should that be lumpier?) idle or even stalling and cold starting can be a problem. Make sure all electric things are working. Peugeot is very (and I mean VERY) expensive when it comes to swithes and other electronics.
Check that the thermostatic fan comes on when the temperature goes up, and that the heater works efficiently.
309 GTi Buyers Guide
Introduction The Peugeot 309 was introduced to the UK in February 1986 as a replacement for the 305. It was mostly built at Peugeot's Ryton plant in Coventry, partly in the hope of making inroads into the British fleet car market. The styling was not to everyone's taste, and build quality was a bit flimsy, but the 309 was mechanically sound and a practical car to own, making it reasonably popular with private buyers. The 309's most outstanding feature was it's handling balance, which put it head and shoulders above the other cars in it's class at the time. If you want to know if your car is a French or British built car, the easy way to check is by the first 3 characters of the chassis number. Ryton built cars start SDB, and French cars start VF3. It was initially available with 3 petrol engine options, and in 3 or 5 door
hatchback form. A diesel version, using Peugeot's excellent 1.9 engine was added
to the range in September 1986. The line up was completed in April 1987, with
the launch of the 1.9 GTI version which had the performance to match it's
acclaimed handling. A 160bhp 16v GTI was available in France, using the same
engine as the Citroen BX 16 valve, but, sadly, it wasn't imported to the UK. 1118cc Petrol
1124cc Petrol
1294cc Petrol
1360cc Petrol
1580cc Petrol
1905cc Petrol
1769cc Turbo Diesel
1905cc Diesel
Bodywork: Far be it from me to suggest that the British build had anything to do with it (and I have it on good authority that the French built 309's were even worse), but 309's seem to me to attract rust more than, for instance, 205's, so check areas like the sills, wheelarches, front subframe mounting points, the lip of the boot and the boot floor for rust. Check for signs of leakage into the boot, most were caused by faulty seals around the tail lights. Peugeot did manufacture a kit to rectify this, but they obviously assume all the affected cars were either cured or have rotted away, as the kit is no longer available as far as we know. Water that leaks into the boot runs forward and sits in the wells beneath the rear seats, which become soggy as a result. Badly stained rear seats can be a good indicator of a leak. Check carefully for signs of accident damage, particularly on GTi's. Also on GTi's, look out for signs of it having been stolen/recovered - One key should work the doors, hatch and ignition. The rear window plays a significant part in maintaining the structural rigidity of the car, and can occasionally break, so have a good look for signs of cracking. Check that the rear hatch is aligned correctly, if not it can gradually wear the paint off one the rear wings as it rubs against it. Also on the subject of the rear hatch, check that the heating element connector is sound and intact, they frequently get yanked off and then bodged back together. If it's been glued, chances are it won't work, but if it's been soldered, you may well find that the glass goes bang fairly soon (if it hasn't already during the soldering). It may be useful to know that we think that 205 and 309 doors are interchangeable if you are looking for a scrapyard replacement for a bashed item. Engine: Petrol models tend to get a bit smoky and noisy with age and the 1.9 engine went through a period during which sub-standard valve seals were fitted (between 1989 and 1991). Affected engines can suffer from excessive oil consumption in later life , but there are no real problems otherwise. Cambelts on petrol engines need replacing at 48,000m intervals. With 5,000m oil changes and 50,000m cambelt changes, the diesels will go on for ever. The 1.3 was the old Horizon engine, famed for its rattly tappets - they will simply need adjusting, so should not be a worry (and you could talk the price down too...). Gearbox/clutch: As with the 205, the gear linkage (made of bits of coathanger and little ball joints) will not take too much heavy use. Early gearboxes are fragile, and very early (early 86 only) gearboxes need to use multigrade engine oil, not gear oil, or they quickly get ruined - this is a common mistake made by garages. Clutches on diesels should last 150,000m. Steering & Suspension: Clunks and rattles from the rear end when going over bumps and potholes usually mean that the damper bushes or the rear subframe mountings are worn, replacement of the rear subframe mounts is not a cheap job and will not leave much change out of £400 at a dealer. Noises from the front suspension are usually caused by the bushes for the anti-roll bar drop links to the front struts being in need of replacement, but this is not too difficult a job. On models with power steering, check for whining noises on full lock, which would indicate a tired power steering pump. Brakes: No problems in general, but check for judder on GTi's which would suggest warped front discs. The rear calipers on GTi's are prone to seizure, if this is happening it will be obvious from the state of the rear discs themselves. Be careful when ordering replacement parts, as a number of different manufacturers of brake components were used. Electrics: The airflow meter on injection models can cause problems, it is a flap-type potentiometer and the tracks can wear and the flap can stick, this can lead to hesitant pickup, incorrect fuelling and a rough idle. Distributor wear on the GTi can lead to a lumpy (or should that be lumpier?) idle or even stalling and cold starting can be a problem. On models with central locking, check that it works on all the doors (and the hatch). Check that the extra lights fitted to the front valance of GTi's (2 fogs and 2 spots) are working, as they are expensive to replace and the contacts tend to rust away due to exposure to the elements. The heater control illumination lights in the dashboard are difficult to replace as a lot of the dashboard has to be removed first, so this can prove to be an expensive little job. Cooling System: Check that the thermostatic fan comes on when the temperature goes up, and that the heater works efficiently. Wheels & Tyres: Check the tyres for uneven wear and signs of tracking problems. The alloys on the GTi are prone to damage from "kerbing" if the wrong sort of tyres are fitted; the proper tyres have a ridge on the sidewall which helps to stop this from happening.
The Peugeot 309 is now reaching bargain basement level, with sound, early cars being available for just a few hundred pounds. Decent 1989/90 GTI's go for between £1,500 and £3,000, and the popular diesels will fetch up to £3,500 for a 1993 model. Best Buys Five door models are better buys, offering greater practicality than the three door models, for a premium of only around £50. The 1.6 injection cars (pre catalyst) offer the best all round package, with surprisingly good performance, good economy and low insurance grouping. Post facelift models (Oct 1989 on) are worth a bit more as the build quality was much improved. Diesels hold their value better than the petrol models, so, even though you have to pay a bit more for a low-spec diesel, than you would for a fully loaded GTI of equivalent age & mileage, you won't lose out when it comes to selling it on. The GTI's will achieve classic status in the years to come, so don't be afraid of buying a decent one to keep for a long while. Avoid 1.1 models are a bit gutless and generally less economical than the 1.3, in
fact, moving up a step the 1.6 is hardly any thirstier than the 1.3. The
XE and GE spec models are almost worthless. Beige (Panama Beige to give it
it's full title) used to be a popular colour - it isn't any more however, and
some of the "Limited Editions" are distinctly tacky. Don't buy a
diesel without a full history. Know any Peugeot bying guide? Seen one on the internet, in a magazine or
wrote one yourself. Please send it to the Peugeot Performance webmasters.
Future Peugeot owners to be will apriciate it.
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